Climbing in Progress

Hello all, I know you´re probably wondering why you are hearing from me again...I will explain later. I thought it would be fun to write and catch up on the journey so far. I will start back with my morning at the hosteria, as they are called in Los Penitentes. I had b-fast with a Polish guy named Mario, who come to find out is also climbing Aconcagua on a solo / self supported quest much like myself. After chatting we are now doing a team effort / solo attempt of Aconcagua if such a thing exists. We were scheduled for starting that morning at different times, so we agreed to meet up at the first overnight stop. On the way to the trailhead we stopped by a giant natural stone bridge in Puente del Inca (see previous blog pic) that was quite amazing and a fun start to the morning. To start the trek you must first check in with the ranger station with your permit. From the trailhead (see first pic) looking towards Aconcagua you could see the top of it cloud covered in a nasty white cloud known here as Viento Blanco (white cloud), which indicates the jet stream dipping down and blowing over the summit. This obviously means nasty winds and weather, but only among the summit, because the rest of the area was beautiful and sunny. I made the expected 4-5 hour trek in only 2 hours, which really made for a short day. My first stop on this approach would be a camp named Confluencia. Once you arrive you must again check in with another ranger station, and be evaluated by a physician at the medical post. Included with your permit are these manditory medical evaluations as you gain altitude, which consist of a basic set of vitals including pulse oximetery, and a brief subjective exam. The permit also pays for you to be medical-evacuated by helicoptor or ambulance, and your rescue should an emergency happen, which is a pretty good deal really. That night it rained, which really kind of put a damper on moral, but what can you do. I was invited to particpate in a ¨ritual¨at the camp, that involves first pooring some wine into a big bowl, then dumping some of it onto the ground as to give back to the earth what it has given us (note that they were extra careful that the earth didn´t over indulge), then passing it around a big circle for all to drink while chanting some spanish phrases, that I have no idea to their meaning. It´s supposed to bring good luck.

The next morning starting off nice with great weather and Mario and I left camp at 10:00 with plans of reaching base camp. This and the summit day are supposed to be the two most difficult days of the whole climb. It is suggested the trek will take 8 hours minimum. I will describe this very long, somewhat miserable day in two parts. The first being the long walk up the Horcones Valley, which is a dry, hot, dusty valley that seems to go on for ever with no end in sight (see pic below). I may chalk this up as the most monotonous thing I have ever done. The second part would be where you begin to actually climb and gain some elevation, which was more difficult and much colder, but a nice change of pace so I´ll take it. While ascending the trail you have to be careful for mule trains that come rushing down the track at five times the speed of the yacks in Nepal, and can easly run you off the trail if you are caught off guard. Finally, I reached basecamp after 6 hours and 45 minutes...a bit ahead of schedule as opposed to the 8 hour schedule. All in all the approach to basecamp covered 16 miles with a 5,000 ft elevation gain, with a 50 lb pack. Basecamp is called Plaza de Mulas and sits at just over 14,000 ft. Needless to say I felt tired, but no signs of altitude sicknes, and overall feeling pretty well. I had to check in here with the rangers and recieve another medical eval, and also was registered my ¨bag for sheet¨or in other words fecal matter for camps higher than basecamp where there are no toilettes. Big fines are given if you don´t return the ¨sheet bag¨when you return from climbing. Basecamp is a very commercial gathering, that is also very overpriced, however you have access to just about any amenity you could think of (Internet, phones, meals, showers, beds, bars....yep you name it). Quite luxerious for being so isolated and only trail accessable. There were even bongo drums playing up until about midnight, which was a nice reminder that I forgot to bring earplugs...something I normally pack. Being so commercial, you are assigned a place to camp that is with your mule company, which also allows you use of their water, toilette, and mess tents. Mario decided to make camp half way between Confluentia and Base Camp, as we each kept our own pace on the approach, and I would meet up with him the next day.

My first full day in basecamp will be a rest day because of the altitude and long previous day. I walked over to a place called Hotel Refugio, which is a lodge style building with dorm rooms, a restaurant, and internet, which is where I´m writing you from. Kind of funny when you think about it, a hotel that you must walk 2-3 days in order to stay at. Makes you wonder if the employees walk to work. I took advantage of the showers they offer here for 10 dollars. Seems a little taboo for such an event, but it was much needed, and well deserved I thought. I havent slept well since being in Argentina due to time change, temperature (hot/cold), noise, elevation etc... but I´m not sore at all from yesterdays trek, and feel pretty energetic. I do have some bruising around the hips from my pack but muc to be expected. Mario showed up later today with some blisters bothering him. We have a few differing oppinions about the climbing plan, but time will tell as we come closer to a summit, and for now it´s nice to have some company and somebody to hold accountable, more importantly, as we get to higher camps. At basecamp, nobody begins to stir until at least 9 or 10 in the morning when the sun begins to heat up your tent. During the day it is sunny and would almost go as far as to say hot. It makes laying around acclimating quite nice...almost like I´m on vacation or something haha.

Today (day 3) I carried my first load of food and fuel etc... up to my first high camp (Camp Canada) at just over 16,000 ft. Made the haul in 2 hours and stayed there to acclimate for an hour or so. Still no headaches or any other signs of altitude sickness, other than moving a bit slower than normal. The Spot locator beacon I have been carrying has sent out 3 locations so far (camp confluentia, basecamp, and high camp 1) for those following. Ok, I really don´t think you will hear from me again until I´m finished climbing, even though I´ve said it before I know. Tomorrow will be my first night in high camp, as I will pack and move the rest of my gear up to stay. My climbing plan so far...to keep putting one foot in front of the other until I get to where I´m going....seems to be working. Take care all, and if this blog doesn´t make any sense at all (spelling, grammer, etc..), well I´ll blame it on the altitude, and the fact that I´m in a hurry because the internet is 20 dollars an hour here and I´m cheap!

Chao